Although frame failures are not "common", they are common-enough that some approaches have been figured out that are worth knowing about when there is a failure.
A "Euro"-size threaded bottom bracket is large diameter with fine threads, which makes it sensitive to manufacturing tolerances. It is also somewhat stretchy and is under high load. It is also subject to a varying load which tends to "work" the bottom bracket in the frame.
The net result is bottom bracket threads strip out sometimes.
"Euro" sizes include ISO/English/Japanese, British, French, Itlian, Raleigh, and Swiss. (See MOBI BB standards for specifications of common bottom brackets.)
Some frames cannot be repaired at reasonable cost, but sometimes repairs are worthwhile. Here are some approaches that may help:
Sometimes an English-thread cup can be tapped to an Italian-thread cup. ISO (aka "English" or "Japanese") is 1.375" x 24 threads per inch, which is 34.9 mm diameter. Italian is 36 mm or about 0.5 mm on each side.
If the bottom bracket shell is thin, tapping oversize may weaken the shell, causing failures. The ISO right cup is left-hand threaded, while Italian is right-hand threaded, so tapping the right side oversize may weaken the threads.
Many bottom brackets can be fitted with different left and right cups, so often only one side needs to be tapped oversize, reducing the risk of damage.
On steel frames, it may be possible to slit the bottom bracket shell, weld it together at smaller diameter, fill with braze material, then re-tap to the original threads.
As with tapping oversize to Italian, this weakens the shell, but the amount of material removed may be less.
A disadvantage of this approach is it ruins the paint.
Steel and titanium frames are often amenable to having the old bottom bracket shell replaced. Cost varies widely with the original construction, which may complicate replacement. Other frame types may be replaceable, but aluminum frames typically need to be heat treated and carbon-fiber frames may be difficult to repair with acceptable aesthetics (in addition to cost issues).
The shell may be milled out to a smooth bore, then an insert installed via brazing (steel bottom bracket) or bonding (aluminum frames).
Getting a suitable bore and without thinning the shell too much generally requires precise machinery which is not widely available, and thus raises the price.
Mavic formerly sold a square-taper bottom bracket which is held by a 45-degree taper on the edges of the shell.
The Mavic bottom bracket is no longer manufactured, but used ones can still be found with some hunting.
The Mavic bottom brackets have a reputation for sudden failure at slightly higher rates than some other bottom brackets. Vigorous tandem riders should investigate suitability, especially a used bottom bracket in service which led already to a frame failure.
The Mavic bottom brackets are available in only limited axle lengths and only square taper, which may not be suitable for some uses.
The Mavic bottom bracket requires a 45-degree taper in the bottom bracket shell. Not all frames are suitable (although many are) and a suitable tool must be located.