Components affecting load distribution
- a taller/wider rim is stiffer, spreads the load more
- each spoke sees less change of tension
- thinner/more flexible spokes spread the load more
- each spoke sees less change of tension
- more spokes
- spokes per length of rim — "spokes in the load-affected zone"
- 36H for 700C approx. same spoke distance as 32H for 26"
- No accident — light MTB rims: Keith Bontrager: 36H MA-2 cut down to 26"
Rim section
- box-section aka double-wall — most common for more expensive rims
- single-wall — most common for cheaper rims
- twin-hollow — most common for cheaper rims
- taller
- wider
- ultimately you care about weight, strength, durability, etc.
Rim structure
- welded or pinned?
- summary: makes no difference (more later)
- machined sidewalls
- summary: reduces rim durability (brake track service life)
- eyelets, double eyelets
- spread spoke/nipple load to spoke bed — more durable
- easier to turn nipple — more spoke tension
- avoid losing nipple in rim box — easier wheel building
- some eyelets rust and get noisy
Rims and braking
- brake track height
- precise pad position
- pad position changes under braking!
- brake smoothness
- bump bump bump at rim joint — usually wears away
- machined brake track — smooth for "first impressions"
- brake power
- dry: most rims similar
- wet:
- chromed steel: bad
- aluminum: good
- machined
- good for test ride wet braking
- wears away
- brake track wear thickness
- how thin is too thin?
- many manufacturers do not say
- approx 0.5mm (4-5 sheets of paper)
- Velocity Aerohead approx 1.4mm brake track thickness
- Mavic MA-2 approx 1.7mm brake track thickness
- "Useful" thickness
- Aerohead 1.4mm-0.5mm=0.9mm
- MA-2: 1.7mm-0.5mm=1.2mm
- 1.2/0.9=1.33 → MA-2 33% more wear thickness
- hard anodizing
- popular in the early 90's — rare today, still sometimes
- longer wearing
- wet braking poor
- can cause fast rim failure via cracking
- ceramic coating on brake track
- helps wear life a lot
- insulator: hurts hot braking
- expen$e, weight
- brittle — can flake off
- brake cooling — failures when things get too hot
- melt pads
- blow tire off the rim — heavy + hills, esp. tandems
- valve stem failures, esp. tandems
- brake cooling
- polished > anodized > painted >> ceramic
- deep section >> shallow section
Rim weight
- heavier is usually stronger and more durable
- but some rims have design weak spots
- light rim compromises
- small section builds a weak wheel
- thin walls crack
- thin brake track wears quickly
- thin brake track more likely to ding on pothole
- rim weight varies LOTS
- light clincher road < 400g, heavy > 800g
- variation even within a given make/model
- e.g., 450-500g
- section is extruded — hot metal through a shaped die
- die wears
- rims get thicker
- some makers "bin" rims, same rim different die wear
Rim aerodynamics
- minor effect for slow riding
- significant for fast riding
- deep: less drag for straight ahead in calm winds
- deep: bad in cross winds
- handling
- loss of aerodynamic benefit
- power is cubic in velocity
- aero is tricky — not all "deep" rims are aero
- tradeoffs: crosswinds, durability, weight, ...
- modern: "semi-aero"
- rule of thumb:
- lots of climbing: fastest lightest wheel possible
- lots of flats: most aero wheels
Offset spoke bed
- asymmetrical or "dished" wheels
- only a few mm
- but if flanges are 36mm and 12mm offset
- 3:1 spoke tension (approx)
- 3mm change in offset
- 33mm and 15mm
- 2:1 spoke tension (approx)
- big difference in maximum load capacity
- big improvement in wheel retensioning interval
- nipples unscrew when spokes go slack
- spokecalc shows you the improvement!
Rims and tires
- rim too narrow for wide tire
- rim too wide rim narrow tires
- "proportion"
- rim that is too wide
- rim too narrow
- bad handling
- tire pull-off (MTB lower tire pressures)
Nipples
Nipple shapes
- standard: wrench flats one end, flare at the other
- standard: 2.0mm or 1.8mm threading
- splined wrench
- rare
- special tool — field service
- hidden
- better aerodynamics
- have to take off tire, etc., to adjust spokes
- special tool — field service
Nipple materials
- most common:
- chromed brass — shiny silver or black
- aluminum — dull silver, black, colors
- standard: brass
- aluminum
- usual reason: 0.3g/nipple vs. 1.0g/nipple for brass
- but more likely to fail esp. for 2.0mm (thicker) spokes
- fail:
- snap — effect like a broken spoke
- sieze to rim and spoke, round off
- here: brass
Nipple locking
- thread-locking/self-locking
- prevents nipple from unscrewing in use
- usually held by friction, unscrew when spoke goes slack
- but if it unscrews in use your wheel may be near collapse
Tall nipples
- tall may have same amount of threading as standard!
Spoke kinds
- Material
- Length
- Diameter
- Cross-section shape
- Elbow, straight-pull
Material
- galvanized steel — traditional, rare today for loose spokes
- chromed steel — traditional but uncommon, rare
- painted — and underneath, galvanized?
- stainless steel
- by far the most common
- usually silver
- some are black
- titanium
- aluminum
- plastics, carbon composites, ... "exotics"
- here: stainless
Length
- determined by rim, hub, lacing pattern
Diameter
- units: mm or gauge
- 2.3mm ↔ 13g
- 2.0mm ↔ 14g
- 1.8mm ↔ 15g
- 1.6mm ↔ 16g
- 1.5mm ↔ 17g
- straight: 2.0, 1.8, occasionally 2.3
- thin in the center, thick at the ends: swaged aka "butted"
- idea: light in the middle, thick at the ends where failures more common
- irregular microstructure and irregular stresses
- Example sizes
- 2.3/2.0/2.3
- 2.3/1.8/2.0 (!)
- 2.0/1.8/2.0
- 2.0/1.6/2.0
- 2.0/1.55/2.0
- 2.0/1.5/2.0
- 1.8/1.6/1.8
- 1.8/1.55/1.8
- why do you care? structure, spoke and spoke bed durability
- Jobst approx 500,000 km same spokes
- at 2.2m/rev => 230M load/unload cycles
- Sapim reports 1+M cycle durability
- sounds good
- 1M revolutions is approx 2200km — yawn!
Shape (cross-section) [example]
- round
- bladed — aerodynamics but may need special hub
- oval — blading without special hub
- skinny → torsionally flexy → easy to damage when tensioning
- field service issues
- less section drag but more skin drag
- more total air drag in cross-winds?
- for this class and for most uses: round
Elbow (common) vs. straight-pull
- why straight-pull? briefly:
- elbow failures if skip steps → solution: no elbow
- but: replace elbow irregular structure/residual stresses
- with nail head or thread irregular structure/residual stresses
- still breaks at the ends
- lighter hubs/wheels ("gram shaving")
- "aero" spokes don't need funny hub holes (reduce hub failures)
- nipples at hub
- "rotating weight" (myth)
- aerodynamics (minor)
- offset spoking (rare)
- downsides
- hub has exactly one lacing pattern (more soon)
- fewer spoke choices
- elbow standard
- several straight-pull "standards"
- spokes are harder to find
- if spoke fails at hub, throw hub away
- "aero" might not be any easier to build
- Elbow curve radius, angle at the hub
- elbow rests on the hub flange
- if does not rest well
- spoke elbow gets worked every wheel revolution
- metal stretch/relax/stretch/relax → fails
- technical term "fatigue" (more later)
- if does not rest well → spoke fails "snap"
- used to be standard
- in 2000,
DT made end straight part longer to speed up automated wheel builders
- lots of failures
- DT made shorter again
- but not as short as before
- elbow closer to 90 degrees (bad)
- in general shops have "whatever" inventory
- newer spokes "not as long as before" but longer than 1999 and older
- dramatically fewer field failures than long spokes
- may still have durability problems
- hard to tell until everybody has been using them for 10-20 years
- what are your requirements?
- failure more likely with thinner hub flanges
- build with washers — helps length, not elbow angle
- some details:
http://peterwhitecycles.com/DTspokes.htm
- conclusion: avoid DT spokes
- Sapim longer too?
- some spokes 90 degree angle? (should be obtuse)
- Wheelsmith spokes currently hard to get (2007)
- rumors Sun-Ringle having supply problems
- if change supplier does that change wire or forming?
- try
- wait and see
- Sapim's thinnest spokes have thick ends (2.0/1.55/2.0)
- twists center section during truing
- what spokes to use?
- "wave hands"
Choosing spokes — material
- aluminum and exoitcs pretty much only in pre-built wheels
- not clear they have an advantage anyway
- aluminum is lighter/volume
- but aluminum spokes much larger volume
- much more surface area — aerodynamic drag?
- different — "it's for selling"
- stainless steel (or SS or just "steel") vs. titanium
- almost always, here: stainless steel
- a few words about titanium
- pretty colors (optional)
- much more expensive
- ... e.g., US $4/spoke vs. $0.50-$2.00 for SS
- durability problems?
- weight:
- Mawri titanium 2.0mm @ 262mm → 3.73g
- Wheelsmith XL15 1.8/1.5 @ 262mm → 4.00g
- 72 spokes: 19.5g or 1.2% of a 1500g wheel
- 48 spokes: 13.0g or 0.9% of a 1500g wheel
- elasticity:
- cross-section area × material elasticity
- compare spokes of similar weight
- ti: π × (2.0/2)2 × 15.5 = 48.7
- SS: π × (1.5/2)2 × 28.0 = 49.5
- no difference there....
- ti: 2.0mm → more wind drag
Length — determined by hub, rim, lacing pattern
Diameter of center section
- thin: lighter
- thin: less air drag
- thin: more expensive if swaged ("butted")
- thin: less prone to break
- thin: more wheel lateral flex
- esp. if low spoke count
- esp. if flexy rim
- diameter vs. rim stiffness vs. wheel load capacity: complicated
- disk brakes: 1.5mm spokes not recommended by spoke makers
- all SS spokes are stronger than the spoke bed or hub flange
- spokes do not break from overload
- spokes do break from fatigue
- thinner spokes fatigue less → more durable
- "too" thin a spoke may build a flexy or weak wheel
- if spokes break, don't buy thicker spokes, build the wheel differently
- large spoke won't fit a hub small hole (rare, but 2.3mm spokes)
- small spoke elbow breaks in a large hole (due to bad support)
- a thick (2.3mm) thread has higher torque than thin (1.8mm)
- torque can twist and damage a thin center during tightening
- 2.0/1.8/2.0 or 1.8/1.6/1.8, etc. good
- 2.0/1.5/2.0 more likely to damage 1.5 section during tightening
- thick spoke thread means thinner nipple wall
- because outside diameter of nipple is the same
- aluminum nipples prone to break on 2.0mm spokes
Elbow (common) vs. straight-pull
- usually: elbow
- here: elbow
Hubs
- flange thickness
- thick from spoke hole out to prevent pull-out
- radiused hole to support spoke elbow
- spoke hole diameter
- "large" == "stiff" == myth
- tangent spoke wheel slight torsional stiffness, tiny
- mostly standard
- distance from spoke hole to outside diameter of flange
- spoke pull-out
- especially for radial spokes
- hub flange offset from center
- front wheels: narrow, standard, wide
- narrow: frequent retruing
- wide: does not fit all forks
- rear hubs
- right offset determined by dropout spacing and width of cluster
- left offset highly variable
- move left flange towards center
- more symmetrical tension
- still have bad bracing angle
- small lateral load → big change in spoke tension
- weak wheel
- once you pick a drivetrain and chainstay width you are sort of stuck
- you choose? market chooses for you
- but sometimes variation, be careful